Ask Al-Zaieem

Go on a weekday morning, right when the shops open around 9 AM. Tuesday or Wednesday are your best bets, Thursday through Saturday is tourist rush. And skip the main alley; the side streets have the real finds.

Koshary Abou Tarek is the obvious answer, but walk five minutes to El Tabei el Domyati for koshary that purists swear by. For fuul and tameya, Sokary on Champollion Street. And for liver sandwiches, yes, liver, head to El Shahat in Bab al-Louq at midnight, when the magic happens.