6 Ramadan Traditions in Downtown Halted by “Coronavirus”

For many years, Downtown Cairo remained a destination during the holy month of Ramadan for people who enjoyed breaking their fast and having suhoor outside their homes, as well as for those seeking artistic and entertainment events. This year, the coronavirus pandemic closed the doors to all events and deprived fasting people of the pleasure of going out among the squares and enjoying Downtown’s Ramadan atmosphere, amid precautionary measures adopted by the government to prevent gatherings and avoid the spread of the virus.

This year, Downtown Cairo changed completely. In the following report, we review the most important features of this change.

1- Fava Bean Carts

Having suhoor at fava bean carts was one of the most important activities enjoyed by Downtown visitors, who savored the distinctive taste among historic and heritage buildings.

Before the coronavirus pandemic began, several carts selling fava beans and serving meals were stationed in Downtown. The best known were the “Saad the Thief” cart at the intersection of Champollion and Mahmoud Bassiouny Streets, and the “Uncle Hamdy” or Master Hamdy Mostafa cart, stationed on Falaki Street near Sabri Abu Alam Street. Its owner was careful to display his professional license and health certificate in a prominent place.

Master “Hamdy” began selling fava beans after moving from New Valley Governorate to Cairo in 1993. He started near the American University, then took a break to complete his military service. Afterward, he returned to work on Falaki Street, where he obtained a district license and a health certificate.

Master Hamdy commented on his absence this year: “Ramadan is different this year. We will not be able to serve suhoor to customers because the curfew hours prevent us from working late.”

The third cart was Haj Youssef Morsi’s cart, inside Al-Ahram Garage on Alwy Street. It had stood near the stock exchange building on Sherif Street since 1973 before moving inside the garage.

٢- Ramadan Charity Tables

Ramadan charity tables in “Khedival Cairo” had long been a refuge for the poor, those in need, and people stranded before iftar.

A shocking government decision banned the إقامة of Ramadan charity tables to prevent gatherings and avoid the spread of coronavirus, making one of Downtown’s most prominent Ramadan features disappear.

Some Ramadan charity tables had been held in Downtown for more than ٢٥ years. The most famous were those organized by the Zeinhem family, whose members trade in antiques and antiquities on Hoda Shaarawi Street, including the tables of Haj Hassan Zeinhem and Haj Ali Zeinhem, held beside the wall of the Armenian Catholic Patriarchate on Sabri Abu Alam Street. There were also the two “Al-Saha Garage” tables: one organized by brothers Haj Fouad and Haj Mohamed Abdel Naeem at the garage overlooking Alwy Street, and the other at the entrance to Mazloum Street, organized by Haj Mohamed Abdel Aziz, owner of the garage property.

There was also Haj Gharib’s table on Tawfiqiya Street, which hosted more than ٥٠٠ people.

٣- Restaurants

Downtown contains many restaurants that closed their doors following government decisions to close restaurants and prevent gatherings.

Downtown once had last-minute iftar restaurants, where fasting people went to break their fast if they were unprepared, the cannon had fired, and they happened to be in the street. These included Al-Prince Restaurant on Alwy Street, Downtown Restaurant on Sherif Street, the famous Akher Saa and Alfy Bek restaurants in Alfy Passage, as well as Somaya’s Outing on Hoda Shaarawi Street and others.

٤- Cafés

Downtown cafés have a special appeal on Ramadan nights. The area includes historic cafés such as Zahret El Bustan, Souk El Hamidiyah, and the Cultural Salon in Bab El Louk, as well as relatively modern ones on Hoda Shaarawi Street and its branches, which contain at least ١٠ cafés. From Talaat Harb Square, visitors could go to Champollion Street and its small side streets, where Al-Takieba Café is located, or cross to the other side of Downtown, to Alfy Street in Tawfiqiya, where many large cafés spread their chairs across the wide passage after its renovation.

None of these cafés will be open during the holy month because they were closed to prevent gatherings and avoid the spread of the coronavirus.

٥- Cultural Centers

Sitting in cafés and walking through the streets of Khedival Cairo among European-style buildings were not the only activities available on Downtown’s Ramadan nights.

Many artistic and cultural centers hosted various events through Ramadan of the previous year, including seminars, theatrical performances, and artistic evenings. These included Al-Balad Library on Mohamed Mahmoud Street, Malaz Center on Talaat Harb Street, and Greek Campus on Mohamed Mahmoud Street.

٦- Entertainment Venues

Government measures to prevent gatherings deprived Downtown visitors of the artistic and entertainment events held in its passages, most notably the Spiritual Maqamat Nights organized by Sama’a Ensemble for religious chanting in Bahler Passage. The events organized by the Cultural Development Fund of the Ministry of Culture in Al-Sharifain Passage in the stock exchange area were also suspended.